Spring/Summer 2023 Runway Season Round Up￼
And just like that, the SS23 runway season has come to an end. At the onset, in early September, what looked like a fashion marathon ahead turned out to be a fast sprint through a myriad of special events and fresh ideas. New York, London, Milan and Paris all had strong showings, with several brands choosing to ring in the changes by moving venues. That included Fendi and Missoni showing in New York, Matty Bovan in Milan and Victoria Beckham’s debut in Paris.
Celebrities popped up all over the place, both in the front rows and on the runways. Kanye West opened Balenciaga and Cher closed Balmain. Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Paris Hilton and Lil Nas X all took turns on the catwalks.
New York – the Fendi’s 25th anniversary of the baguette, Y2K style and ‘naked’ dresses
Over 80 brands showed during NYFW. This included a special presentation from Fendi to celebrate 25 years of their baguette bag. A harkening back to the late twentieth century and beginning of the twenty-first still resonates in New York. Tiny crop tops above baggy pants were a signature look of the nineties, shown this season by several designers. Piecing together various materials to create a collaged look can also be traced back to the nineties and in particular, the work of Xuly.Bet. In complete contrast, openwork body con looks over underwear were prevalent on many runways.
London – Tributes to The Queen, daytime glamor and ‘aluminum chic’
As the inaugural winner of the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, the death of The Queen held a special significance for Richard Quinn, He dedicated his SS23 collection to Her Majesty and the audience was thrilled to see several nods to the late monarch including Norman Hartnell-esque full-skirted gowns, belted coats, headscarves and of course, a few crowns.
Other LFW highlights included a strong daytime glamor trend seen at Molly Goddard, Erdem and Simone Rocha. Y2K looks were as prevalent in London as they had been in New York.
There were also plenty of looks rendered in high shine materials.
Milan – Matty Bovan, Space Age whites and Kate Moss at Bottega Veneta
In Milan, avant-garde looks were supplied by visiting British designer Matty Bovan and a stand out collection came from Bottega Veneta. Designer Matthieu Blazy created a stunning set with colorful, swirling poured resin floor and 400 unique chairs. The audience which included Erykah Badu and Kirsten Dunst were thrilled to see industry veteran,Kate Moss, walk the runway in an outfit that looked as if it was rendered from denim, flannel and cotton, was, in fact, leather.
There were also several significant style trends. Layered looks were prevalent, especially on slip dresses. Many designers showed monochromatic looks and a ‘space age’ techno white look stood out. After last year’s preponderance of miniskirts and short shorts, ‘forties style’ pencil style skirts and dresses made a refreshing comeback.
Paris – Bella Hadid gets sprayed, Cher at Balmain and the Kanye West controversy
Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2023 ended Tuesday, October 4 and the editors, buyers and influencers who flocked to see in-person shows in the French capital couldn’t have been more impressed. From Bella Hadid in Coperni’s futuristic spray on dress and Kanye West’s entrance at Balenciaga, to the choreographed dance tribute to Issey Miyake and Cher’s appearance at Balmain, the week was filled with special events. It wasn’t the last we saw of Ye who delivered an impromptu show with a controversial message.
Strong themes emerged throughout the ten days including bell and bubble shaped dresses and skirts reminiscent of the ‘eighties, black leather total looks, asymmetric neck and hemlines and coordinated tailoring.